The Naked Truth About Advertising and Underwear

This time of year our shop Your Life Your Style is full of hearts. Glass coasters with hearts fused into them, heart shaped cushions, handmade cards with stuck on hearts… other shops have enough flowers, chocolates and romantic CDs to fill Westminster Abbey. All intended to show we love someone this coming Monday.
Underwear seems a popular choice as a Valentines Day gift but I’m not certain it’s a good idea. I’ve been wondering how men who receive Marks & Spencer’s new BodyMax underwear will feel. To remind you, this is a new range intended to make a man’s abs more flat, his bum more firm, and his maleness… just plain more. All those years your wife or girlfriend has been saying size doesn’t matter and suddenly she buys you ‘frontal enhancement’ underpants.
It's worse still if you buy them for yourself. The trouble with all these body changing clothes, for men or women, is that, once you’ve attracted your potential mate with a bulging crotch or uplifted padded boobs, there comes an inevitable moment of truth. Your pants go down and the mountain brings forth a mouse. The bra comes off and your man’s face drops along with a couple of other things. I suppose we hope that by then our partner will be so overcome by passion, they’ll forgive the deception. Or maybe we just make rely on everything looking better by candlelight.
In business we have no such luxury. The law doesn’t allow us to pretend our product or service is one thing and then hope once the customer has bought it, they’ll just accept the disappointing reality. Nor would it be good business sense. Contrary to a widespread public perception, advertising is not about lying. The industry regulator the Advertising Standards Authority even says in its core statement that advertisements in print, TV and radio must be ‘honest, decent and legal’. It’s about to get tougher for businesses because from 1st March the ASA is taking on complaints about websites.
Shops shouldn’t need legislation to make us honest because truth is our biggest marketing tool. I've always found that if you are honest about your products, describing them accurately, admitting their limitations, even sending customers elsewhere if that is their best bet, and apologising when you get something wrong, your customers will trust you and come back to you again and again.
These days, all good websites allow customers to comment on products and service from the mighty Amazon to our own little (and only slightly enhanced) Your Life Your Style. We don’t always like what is said but it shows customers we have nothing to hide and it is an additional spur to be clear and accurate about what we promise.
Of course you can’t satisfy everybody and we’re all entitled to an opinion. One customer gave a poor review to our ‘rabbit’ draught excluder. There was nothing wrong with its quality but she didn’t like his slightly mad expression! Still, at least we didn’t pretend it was a bigger size.

This article also appeared on the Your Life Your Style Wordpress blog and on the Southern Daily Echo website

Recommend A Rival

This is what I wrote in the Southern Daily Echo today:

Here's the dilemma. An item is out of stock but you know your competition has one. Do you tell your customer or do you pretend your competition doesn't exist? What if you know your competition is cheaper? I recently had reason to be grateful to a rival shop. And, more surprisingly, I noticed ASDA had reason to thank Marks & Spencer.
Stylish Life not only sound quite like my shop Your Life Your Style, they also sell similar gifts. In particular they always come up alongside us in a Google search for Dora Designs animal door stops. Naturally I think of them as an arch rival. So I was pleasantly surprised to receive a telephone call from a customer wanting to buy a particular door stop, saying she had been recommended by Stylish Life.
It's an excellent idea because there's a good chance a customer will return to a shop they can trust to give them the best service, even if it means a lost sale.
But do you send customers to another shop when their prices are lower? These days many stores check and then match prices. We do it and it's what Marks & Spencer have been doing since they started selling branded groceries. Looking at their price comparisons the other day, I was taken aback to see a sign for Kelloggs Crunchy Nut Cornflakes saying M&S price £2.39, ASDA price £2.20.
It's one thing to send a customer elsewhere when you're out of stock but telling customers your shop has higher prices than your competition? My first reaction was that someone didn't follow through with a price match while someone else did follow through with the shelf ticket. But we are talking about the massive marketing resources of Marks & Spencer, so I think it must be deliberate. If I'd done it, my partner would calling for men in white coats but since this is M&S, it's clearly an incredibly brave and innovative marketing strategy. Anyway, where's the nearest ASDA?

Diesel Ad Campaign Far From Stupid

Congratulations to Diesel on a great advertising campaign culminating with the perfect result- a ban by the Advertising Standards Authority. Ban aside, Diesel's poster/print ad campaign is well worth a look for its humorous concept (who cares about those clever types, it's good to be stupid), perfect targeting (people who think of themselves as young and individualistic) and immaculate execution (beautifully set up and shot tableaux). And it shows off the product.

Sales Are In The Detail

A blog I always look at is Retail Details. It's a treasure trove of ideas and inspiration on how to improve your window displays, with lots of great photos of imaginative displays. Displays at the Your Life Your Style shop in Winchester are done by Lyn Knott who has a brilliant eye for colour and form.

Too Much Of A Good Marketing Thing

One of the world’s leading internet retailers is bombarding me with emails. A weekly update on their latest offers and new products would be OK. But daily? This is spam, no matter how good the targeting is. It’s a classic marketing mistake and is bound to lead to people blocking their emails. That includes me, much as I like buying from this company.
At Your Life Your Style, we email about once a month, which may not be enough to keep us constantly on our customers' radar, but I'd rather that than become unwelcome in the inbox.

You'll Either Love Or Hate This Advertising

I myself don't love or hate Marmite- I can take it or leave it. Nevertheless I congratulate DDB, the marketing people, for their Marmite campaign. I can't remember a concept that has so entered the national consciousness. I'm not talking about memorable slogans, of which there have been quite a few. I mean the way the brand name has become shorthand for an idea. I've lost count of the number of times I've heard or read someone say, 'It's like Marmite', often without even the 'love it or hate it' explanation.
It's the Holy Grail for marketeers to create something that so gets into people' brains. 'Gifts As Unique As You' is my best effort so far for our shop Your Life Your Style. Regarding our best selling products, Steiff offer 'For children, only the best is good enough', Ashleigh & Burwood fragrance lamps go for 'Parfum. Inspiration. Emotion' and Dora Designs go for 'Uniquely Different Gifts'.

Bad People Can Write Good Copy

I always delete spam emails without a second thought but the Subjcet Line of one the other day did catch my eye. One of the abilities I most admire is being able to write good advertising copy- finding the right words presented in the best way to get a positive response from the targeted audience.  So let me deconstruct the Subject Line of this spam email: "I sexual Russian blond, want to see, come closer".

To start with, it has the authentic 'foreign' phrasing that someone not totally familiar with English might use. You can almost hear the sexy Russian accent. Then there's the choice of words. "Sexual", as opposed to the more predictable "sexy", implies the sender is actually wanting sex rather than simply offering it. "Russian" is the nationality currently most associated with women who are keen to offer sexual liaisons. And of course she couldn't be anything other than a "blond", it's a hair colour perennially associated with sexiness but it keeps the description at a fun level instead of going for more potentially offputting explicit sexual attributes. 

So, having got the target's attention, we move on to getting the interest- "Want to see". Not a question, more an assumption intended to get you nodding in agreement.

Finally the call to action- "Come closer". In practice, this means 'click on the email' (then open a virus infected attachment or go to a website where we'll extract money or identity data from you). But by using this metaphor, the writer has created something far more powerful, evoking the memory of past experiences and that frisson of excitement when an intimate friend has wanted to get to know you on a more physical level. No-one but an idiot would even consider opening the email but that clever copy might just be enough to persuade the aforesaid idiot to click.

I deleted it, being neither the target market nor an idiot. If only such copywriting skill was being used for the power of good.

Would You Sell £25,000 Solar Panels To An 82 Year Old ?

Even the noblest of causes offers cynics an opportunity for gain. And its supporters aren't always as noble as the cause. Green issues are a case in point. There's a whole green industry anxious to exploit our desire to help the planet and save on energy costs.
Solar panels seem like a great way to avoid wasting the earth's natural resources. So far so good, but if you've got solar panels to sell, you'll want to appeal to more than altruism. So what about good old fashioned greed?  Suggest the customer can save money as well as the planet and the sale is assured. Even if they'll never save enough to pay for the huge cost of the panels.
One sales rep recently tried to sell top of the range panels to an 82 year old I know. The kind of panels that generate electricity, enough to cover your own use and leave some over to sell to an electricity company. Only £25,000 (which is already £9000 more than the highest price I could find on the web). Even on the salesman's own figures, it would take 20 years to pay back the cost, let alone the lost interest on savings. Remember he's talking to an 82 year old.
Then there's scientists so desperate to prove their case that they massage the figures and eco warriors who fly on private jets to campaign the cause. Yet the fact is, just because there will always be unscrupulous or stupid people who attach themselves to a cause, it doesn't make the cause unworthy. Just as a few fanatics are being used to discredit a whole religion, so we should be aware that climate change sceptics will use any bad behaviour by 'greens' to create doubt about the need to take action on damage to the environment.
Having been in marketing for much of my life, I'm aware that, because of some unethical types, there's an assumption on many people's parts that marketing is about lying, saying anything to sell your product. My own experience is that marketing is about finding a truth within the product that will connect it to the potential purchaser.Add to which, you can't build a longterm reputation on lies. The problem with environmentalists being discredited by a few bad apples is that it doesn't just affect a few sales, it could damage all our futures.

Smiling Vacuum Cleans Up

When you’re involved in a small business like Your Life Your Style, you find yourself doing all sorts of tasks you previously left to others. I’ve had to become a bookkeeper, a sign maker, a decorator and, every so often, a cleaner. 

Vacuuming isn't the most exciting job but what makes it a bit more enjoyable for me is our vacuum cleaner. He's called Henry, he's bright red and he has a lovely smiling face. When he follows me around, it's like having a friendly faithful pet. He certainly cheers me up in the morning but that wouldn't be more than clever marketing by Numatic if he wasn't also the best vacuum cleaner we've ever had.

Dora Designs On Facebook- Fun Comes First

Our shop Your Life Your Style already has a Facebook page. We've now started an I Love Dora Designs group. We want people who love Dora Designs to find out more about Doras, post photos and news, and to talk to each other. This is not set up to sell Doras but many successful businesses on the internet have learnt that by providing a useful service first, sales follow. If we do sell a few Doras, we'll be happy but, if not, it's still fun to run a Dora Designs Fan Club.

Your Frontline Is Your Business

Seth Godin makes a good point in his blog about the importance of managers keeping in touch with the front line. When I took over responsibility for the operational side of a theatre, I spent time doing or shadowing all the various jobs. It was an eye-opener and the experience helped me be aware how much of a gap there is between management theory and frontline practice when you have real people dealing with each other, who may be tired, confused or lacking information. As the CEO of Sony once said, 'The company is only as good as its latest recruit.'
Neither can executives rely on middle managers for a true picture of what's going on. They often don't want to admit that their staff are in difficulty in case it reflects on them. I've seen from close by the disastrous consquences to staff morale and company results, when senior managers are out of direct touch with their employees.
I like the small businesses I'm involved in now because I'm in constant touch with all colleagues and I experience at first hand what's going on with customers and suppliers. I find the Your Life Your Style online shop more difficult from this point of view, because while there is endless analysis available of site visitors and customers, I rarely get to actually speak to them. I like these sites where you can click to 'speak' to a real person.

Mary Queen Of Empty Shops

Mary Portas looked at empty high streets on last night's TV. Fortunately Winchester where our shop is located is so far unaffected by the recession, although some premises in The Brooks are proving hard to fill.
Her answer to the high street woes after an hour of waffle? Work with neighbouring retailers, give the customers what they want and do it with a bit of razamataz. Good advice but did it need an hour to come to that conclusion?

My Loss Was My Copywriting Gain

I'd just written an email for Your Life Your Style customers. I went to the loo and when I got back, someone had inadvertently logged into the website administration and my email was lost. I wrote it once more and clicked to send a test email. The website software froze and again I lost it.

Strangely I was not dishearetned or frustrated by this. Because you should re-write and re-write and re-write again. And ideally you should not refer to what you already wrote.

When you've gone through the process of writing copy a few times, the ideas are firmly lodged in your brain, so you don't have to think about what you're saying. You become one with the copy, grasshopper.

What comes out of your head when you re-write on a blank screen is sharper, leaner and more natural.

The Price Is Right

I love, actually I need to start the working day with a coffee. To be precise, a latte from Costa. And every day I can’t believe I’m paying £2 for a takeaway coffee. How did the coffee houses persuade us to pay such an outrageous price which appears to bear no relation to cost?

To be fair, when we price products for our gift shop Your Life Your Style, it’s not as simple as taking the cost and applying a standard percentage mark up. There are a number of factors we take into account. As I always tell businesses who consult me, you first must consider the market and set a price appropriate to it.

As retailers, we have little say over the product’s position in the market, so we move straight on to how many we expect to sell and how much customers are willing to pay. At Your Life Your Style, we rarely expect to sell products on a mass scale because we offer special gifts and accessories.

However, if we can sell a reasonable number, we can afford a lower margin and make the profit we need through scale. Going back to my old theatre marketing days, I think of the example of Christmas pantomime where the type of audience and the numbers who attend allow for lower prices than for, say, a musical.

On the other hand, if the market is more niche, it is necessary to charge more. Opera comes to mind as a case where, at least when I was trying to sell it, no matter how cheap you made the tickets, there were only so many people interested in buying. At Your Life Your Style, we may go for a higher than average profit margin if we know a product is unique and may take some time to shift.

Of course, how people themselves value the product will have a big influence. And this is where it gets more complicated. Marketing, word-of-mouth and the intrinsic qualities of the product will potentially affect a consumer’s attitude to a product. They may have an emotional attachment to it or make a rational decision about its quality or simply want to show off that they have the taste or money to purchase it. Whatever the reason, if a customer believes the product to be exceptional or life enhancing, they will pay a premium for it.

This is why we don’t automatically charge the lowest price we can afford based on cost. A cheap price means to many people an inferior product because that is what they’ve learned from experience. No doubt Chanel could charge less but their customers want to buy an expensive perfume. In fact, perfume manufacturers and other fashion brands like Levi have fought hard to stop their products being discounted and thereby ‘cheapened’.

Back to coffee (and I am beginning to feel like another latte), Starbucks managed to persuade us that we were getting something special. Special beans, specially roasted, freshly ground, customised to your taste and in a social club atmosphere. Hence the special price. Then everybody started imitating it but the strange thing is, the more popular premium coffee became, the more the price should have come down. Yet it didn’t.

Initially Costa and the rest wanted to show they were the same quality as Starbucks, so they matched the prices. Even so, in all the years since, no-one has broken ranks and reduced prices. I read that at a blind tasting people preferred McDonalds coffee to Starbucks but it will take some persuading people that you don’t always get what you pay for.

Knowing the price people will pay forces Your Life Your Style reluctantly to turn down some excellent products where the cost is too high, taking into account all our overheads. For example, we have found that some (not all) products hand crafted in Britain are so expensive to produce that the retail price looks hugely expensive when compared with either something handcrafted in the third world or something mass produced. Every product must earn the time and space it takes up.

There is always an element of trial and error in pricing. We know there is a tipping point at which a product sells, so it’s easier to start with a higher price first and, if the product doesn’t sell, lower it. This then gives us the opportunity to employ the other great pricing tool- the bargain. Some more cynical businesses deliberately charge a high price to establish that something has a value, not expecting the product to sell, then cut the price. This way, people don’t see it as ‘cheap’ but rather a ‘bargain’.

We prefer to price fairly from the start, because we know that customers have no respect for cynical businesses. Their spend with a gift-cum-lifestyle shop like ours is entirely discretionary so we need their respect. To me, getting the price right is a constantly challenging element of running a business. There is no easy formula but if you get it wrong, all your other good work goes out the window.

Blue Islands Airline Soars Above Flybe

Back from our first visit to Guernsey and very impressed by the Blue Islands airline service.

They are a small channel islands business and, as opposed to their competition Flybe, very customer friendly. You can amend or cancel your booking up to one hour before- at no charge; there's no charge for your hold luggage; there's no charge for use of their lounge at Guernsey airport.

I'll definitely return to Guernsey, a great place for a long weekend break- and I know who I'll be travelling with.

Brand or Category?

My first manager job was for a John Menzies bookshop. My first act as manager was to change the categories of paperbacks from by publisher (designed to help the staff and suppliers) to by subject (to help the customers). It's not always so easy though. Many customers shop by brand and want to see all Nike products, say, grouped together rather than spread between various categories.
Marks & Spencer are an interesting example of a shop that seems unsure of which they want to do. In my local, you can shop for Autograph or PerUna clothing by brand but find other stock grouped by type. Except that lingerie comes under not Autograph or PerUna but lingerie. It's the same in the food section. Unlike Tesco or Sainsbury who mix their Taste The Difference in with the standard and Value products in the appropriate category, Marks put similar meals under categories in some cases and under 'brands' like 'Pub Grub' (or whatever it's called) in others. Confused? You will be if you shop at Marks.
It's easier with an online shop because you can do both- as we do at Your Life Your Style, where for example you can click on Glass by Jo Downs and Handmade In UK.
A bricks and mortar store must observe its customers' behaviour and ask them their preferred way of shopping.

Customer Says It With Flowers

I'm always impressed by the customer service given by my wife Julia and sister-in-law Wendy in our Winchester shop Your Life Your Style.
They seem to know instinctively when to stand back and when to intervene. They listen, they suggest appropriate products, they enthuse, they never push. Customers love them. They tell them about their lives. They come back.
But yesterday was a first. A customer returned with a posy of flowers for each of them because they'd given her such good service.

Why Good Retailers Make The Best Lovers

The manuals and the agony aunts pretty much all agree that the best lovers are the generous lovers who put their partner first. They listen, they learn and they try to to please them.

It strikes me that it's highly likely therefore that the best retailers make the best lovers. After all, like a good lover, a good retailer puts the customer first, listens to what they want, doesn't push their own agenda, improves their service and products in the light of what they learn about customers' needs, in fact does everything they can to make the customer feel like a king or queen.

Carried over to the bedroom, this mindset cannot fail to please a lover and win his or her heart. Like a loyal customer, the partner is likely to stay faithful and even forgive the occasional lapse into selfishness or peremptory lovemaking.

Of course, we can go too far with comparisons. A good retailer will send a customer to another shop if they're unable to satisfy them. Not many lovemaking manuals would recommend that.

Funny Marketing

I was interested to read in the ClickZ newsletter that the late US comedian Red Skelton used to collect the addresses of members of his audience, then write to them next time he was due in town. A simple but very cost effective tool for selling tickets and building a fan base that most acts fail to exploit to this day.

How To Become Famous

The current media coverage of Jade Goody is a masterpiece in the art of PR. You wouldn't expect the imminent demise of a person, who participated in a reality TV show and was likeable and inadvertently amusing but has little discernible talent, to attract such attention, however sad her story. However she and her PR team have handled her media career brilliantly from the moment she came to national attention and, in effect, have made her famous for being famous, continually renewing the interest.

Mark Borkowski is a PR agent, who specialises in arts and entertainment, has worked out a formula for achieving this kind of celebrity. His book The Fame Formula (Sidgwick & Jackson), explains how modern PR became such a powerful tool by telling the fascinating story of the development of Hollywood publicists or ‘flacks’. It starts with the outrageous stunts of the silent movie era, moves through the sanitising control by studio fixers in the mid-centuryand ends with today’s powerful agents who fence with the devils of the media on behalf of would-be celebrities.

There are some great examples of stunts which were carried out from town to town in the early 20th century by publicists who followed in the large footsteps of P T Barnum. To publicise The Return Of Tarzan, Harry Reichenbach sneaked a tame lion into a hotel room, resulting in a major news story. Its human companion told the newspapers he wanted to be like the Apeman.

Invention on that scale is less common nowadays because it’s more easily exposed as a stunt by mass communication but there is still plenty of scope for stories that use gimmicks to gain attention. I’ve had Cannon and Ball planting a tree to launch Babes In The Wood and soaked the local TV weatherman when Singin’ In The Rain was in town.

The greatest publicity stunt of all time is probably the three year search for someone to play Scarlett O’Hara in Gone With The Wind. The saga is retold in detail from the point-of-view of the studio’s publicist Russell Birdwell. We recreate a small scale version every time we get coverage from auditioning children to play The Babes In The Wood.

Although the publicity said it was a chance arrival of Vivien Leigh on the set that led to her getting the part, it seems the decision had already been made. The point is, the story may be fictitious but it tells a truth that people want to believe about the person or event. When I was involved in publicising Snow White, a story about Sneezy being the only dwarf not to get a cold caught the public imagination. It even became the answer to a Trivial Pursuit question.

The Secret Of Lasting Fame

There are a number of heartfelt references in the book to the way even the best publicists are frequently dumped by their employers, something to which I can attest. The trouble is, people believe their own publicity and don’t like to acknowledge that their achievements are not entirely due to their own talent. An example quoted is the disastrous period Tom Cruise went through after he ditched Pat Kingsley. In the rough seas of today’s media, the ship of fame requires a steady hand on the tiller.

The importance of celebrity to today’s media means that ‘superflacks’ like Kingsley are more powerful than journalists. She controls all aspects of her clients’ interfaces with the outside world, even down to telling them to leave a small gap when they cross their legs so the top leg doesn’t look fat.

Whilst acknowledging that nowadays some people like Jade Goody are simply famous for being famous, nevertheless Borkowski insists, “Fame still, on the whole, relies on someone being possessed of an extraordinary talent.” Andy Warhol, whose portraits of famous people are currently on display at the Hayward Gallery, would agree. Despite suggesting everyone could be famous for 15 minutes, he also (less famously) said, “You should always have a product that’s not just you.” In other words, lasting fame should be the result of producing something of worth.

Borkowski rambles and repeats himself a bit and I found the story he tells somewhat disjointed. I suspect it needed more editing. Nevertheless it is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in PR. The formula for fame that the book promises is revealed at the very end. And it really is a mathematical formula. Studying a number of celebrities, Borkowski concluded that any boost to fame lasts 15 months (not Warhol's minutes) after which it needs to be renewed or the celebrity will slip into obscurity. I'm afraid I got lost at F(T)=

A version of this piece appeared in the December edition of Encore magazine